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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.